Aftermarket Headunit Install
This install was done on a 2004 Golf GL with a Double-Din Non-Monsoon sound
system. A Blaupunkt Tamp Bay headunit was used.
This How-To can also be used to install an aftermarket headunit if you have:
Aftermarket Headunit of Choice
A Blaupunkt Tampa Bay headunit
was used for this install
Wiring Harness Adapter
Metra Part # 70-9003 (Double-Din)
Metra Part # 70-1784 (Single-Din)
Metra Part # 40-VW53 (Double-Din)
Metra Part # 40-VW20 (Single-Din)
(1) Set of Radio Removal Keys
(1) Soldering Gun w/ Solder
The first thing that needs to be done is the prep of the wiring harness
adapter along with any wiring that comes with the aftermarket headunit.
The wires need to be stripped at the ends and solder needs to be added.
Next, the wiring harness adapter needs to be soldered to the wiring of the
aftermarket headunit. Make sure you cut pieces of shrink tubing and put
them over the wires before you solder the wires together.
After everything is soldered together, heat the shrink tubing over the
soldered wires. This will protect the connections from being touched by
After the shrink tubing is heated, apply electrical tape over the shrink
tubing. This will prevent the shrink tubing from accidentally coming
off the connection.
Here is a picture of the wiring harness adapter and wiring for the
aftermarket headunit prepped:
With all the prep work done, you can now move to the car and install your
The first thing that needs to be done is the stock headunit needs to be
removed. Take the radio removal keys and insert them in the proper
Once the keys are locked in, pull on the keys and the radio will pull out.
Note: The single-din headunits only have two slots for removal keys.
Remove the wiring harness and the antenna from the back of the stock
Note: The single-din headunits wiring harness is removed different than the
wiring harness on a double-din headunit.
With everything removed from the din area, you can now install the mounting
bracket that your aftermarket headunit came with.
Note: Not all mounting brackets are the same. The way they are
installed may differ from one company to another.
Next, the wiring harness adapter can be connected to the stock wiring
Now you can connect the wiring that came with your headunit to the headunit
Note: At this point, you are going to want to connect
any other additional wiring harnesses to your headunit. In this install, RCA inputs and RCA outputs
were added to the headunit. They are the blue and yellow connectors
that are connected to the rear of the headunit. For this install, the
antenna adapter was not used because the radio is never going to be used.
Your headunit is going to need to be remotely turned on. In the
pictures above you see a long red wire. That is the remote turn on
wire. For this install, a Add-A-Circuit was used at the fuse box on
Note: An aftermarket amp and subs were also installed during this
aftermarket headunit installation. You will notice an extra black wire
connected to the Add-A-Circuit. This is the remote turn on wire for
the aftermarket amp that is powering the subs.
Once you have everything connected that needs to be connected, you can now
test your headunit to make sure everything works properly. At this
point, if the headunit turns on and you can hear music coming from all of
the speakers, you are as good as gold. You can now
push the headunit into the mounting bracket and lock it in.
Note: Make sure when pushing the headunit in that no wires are being smashed
For this install, a blank din panel was used to cover up the section where
the din pocket would normally go. It is a good thing that the din
pocket was wanted for this install because there would be nowhere to put all
of the wiring.
Here are picture of the final product.
Note: You will notice to the right of the radio is the Custom iPod Mount and
also another mount for a cell phone. You can get instructions on how
to make the Custom iPod Mount by clicking here. You can also buy the
lower cell phone mount at www.panavise.com.